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- #GARRARD ZERO 100 HEADSHELL WIRING DIAGRAM HOW TO#
- #GARRARD ZERO 100 HEADSHELL WIRING DIAGRAM INSTALL#
- #GARRARD ZERO 100 HEADSHELL WIRING DIAGRAM SERIES#
Once you have the cartridge mounted in the headshell with the wires all connected up, the next job is to get the cartridge positioned properly and all the various settings on the arm dialed in.
#GARRARD ZERO 100 HEADSHELL WIRING DIAGRAM HOW TO#
For more details I suggest checking out the Mysteries of the Turntable article, where I go into more detail on how to make the electrical connections. Most new cartridges come with screws that will work in the majority of arms, and often they'll even throw in a suitable tool for tightening things up.
#GARRARD ZERO 100 HEADSHELL WIRING DIAGRAM INSTALL#
Once you have your cartridge you need to install it, and this is where the fiddly part starts. Stanton, Shure, and Ortofon are the biggest names in DJ cartridges, but as we have seen they also make models specifically for the hi-fi customer. To stand up to the beating they take at the hands of your typical DJ, these cartridges usually work at very high stylus pressures, and they are built for ruggedness rather than subtlety. Unless you plan to become the next Tiësto, I would steer clear of cartridges aimed at the DJ market.
#GARRARD ZERO 100 HEADSHELL WIRING DIAGRAM SERIES#
Ortofon's recent 2M series, Audio Technica's AT95E, and Grado's Prestige series are also fine choices, along with the bargain-basement Ed Saunders Red Ed at just $15.95. Shure was traditionally one of the biggest players in this field, but they now have a rather limited selection, though that includes the excellent M97圎. If you're just looking to get that old 1970s turntable from your college system back up and running, there are plenty of good affordable cartridges from brands like Ortofon, Audio Technica, and Grado. The high output means less noise with many phono inputs, and the user-replaceable stylus saves a lot of tears and headaches if you suffer from what I call "cleaning lady syndrome." After all, nobody ever admits to breaking their own cartridge, do they? While the exotic nature of the most expensive MC cartridges has given them a cachet that can make a MM seem ordinary, in most systems an MM will deliver equal - if not better - performance than a fancy MC. With typically ten times the output level and a user-replaceable stylus, a good MM cartridge is normally the best replacement choice for most systems. There are a number of relatives of the moving magnet type such as the induced magnet system used by Grado, but for the sake of simplicity I'll simply refer to all of those here as moving magnet (MM) cartridges.
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Budget aside, your choice will depend to some extent on the turntable you want to mount it in, and the type of phono input you plan to connect it to.Īlmost all cartridges fall into one of two camps, the more exotic moving coil (MC) models that often have a very low output level, and the more popular high output moving magnet (MM) types. Of course before you can install a cartridge you need to have one to install, and this involves choosing from the vast array of models ranging in price from less than $20 to over $10,000. My goal here is to go into a little more detail on the finer points of cartridge alignment. I covered some of the basics in an earlier article called Mysteries of the Turntable Explained, and I would suggest starting there for some tips on how to get your turntable running correctly.
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One key factor in hitting this auditory sweet spot is to make sure the phono cartridge is installed and aligned skillfully. Unlike a CD player or iPod which you simply connect and play, most turntables require careful optimization to deliver the best possible sound. That's great, but for people who come from the CD or iPod generations, it's hard to comprehend just how tweaky the world of analog playback can be. After having been declared dead sometime back in the 1990s, analog turntables and vinyl records have made a strong comeback in recent years.